We watched in awe, Rube and I, as our friend Ray walked
stoically toward a dusky horizon along the road from Calais to Boulogne: his
destination, ultimately, like our own, the city of Paris where we hoped to make
our fortune as buskers. We were an odd trio to say the least.
I, a callow and often drunken youth of merely seventeen and
several years younger than the other two had somehow – or through having booked
the hovercraft tickets – been designated ‘team leader’. This did not bode well
for our trip, though in such capacity I advised we split up the better to
secure motor perambulation to the capital.
Ray, in his twenties and with six years army experience was
the obvious choice to hitch on alone, and leave me to look after Rube who only
six weeks before had been a resident of Goodmayes Mental Hospital as a
diagnosed paranoid schizophrenic who’d taken somewhat of a funny turn.
Speaking of which, Rube’s mad parents – his mother Phyliss
was more deserving of psychiatric attention than her only son ever was –and his
father, Monty who pretended to be deaf to save his sanity had asked Ray and I
to accompany them to Southend as a day out for Rube away from his institutional
confinement. In the car on the way down Rube, gibbering and generally out of it
on whatever psychotropics had been administered, would only be comforted by my
singing his favourite Irish tunes (he was mad keen on Planxty and The Bothy
Band). This though maddened Phyliss who started shrieking her disapproval,
ironically like a banshee. Monty hummed to himself and eh? and what-ed his way
out of confrontation. Ray sat beside me on the back seat chuckling as I belted
out Spancil Hill and The Wild Rover.
By the time we reached Southend there were more people in
that car in need of strong medication than just Rube.
And now we're in France and Rube is shaking and muttering and
fidgeting and fretting. He’s like a wind-up toy with faulty wiring, gulping and
sweating and spouting some insane mantra that could have sounded like ‘what the
fuck am I doing here?’ but it was incoherent to all but himself. We’d spent the night before attempting to
sleep under the stars in the ruins of an old Calais Castle. By the end of this
second evening, he’d be praying for such luxury.
The sky had been black as the Earl of Hell’s arse crevice
but now the God’s had entered battle and the whole thing was lit up by
lightning flashes and thunder roared like Zeus himself breaking rumbling wind.
The rains suddenly poured, lashed, pounded and thudded from the ground. Rube
and I had finally got a lift from a local social worker in one of those wee
Citroen cars that look as if you build them from a kit. Rube wanted to beg him
to add him to his case-load but couldn’t find the words. The only French he
knew and kept repeating was voulez-vous
manges mon pantalon? Which may not even have grammatically correct but
seemed to make the driver laugh. He dropped us off at a camp-site somewhere
outside Boulogne little knowing that we didn’t even possess even the most basic
equipment like even a tent.
We were in the middle of a weather cataclysm with only
sleeping bags for protection.
There was, though, a camp toilet.
I don’t know if you’ve ever tried to sleep on the floor of a
campsite toilet but my advice would always be – don’t! Assuming you ever
achieve slumber you will wake up soaked in urine and have the smell of human
defecation in your nostrils for days. Folk will have kicked you whether by
accident or design and will have sworn at you in a multitude of languages. I
lay there all night slurping at my bottle of duty-free Johnnie Walker and
singing Irish songs to Rube with the intention of cheering him up. It seemed to
have the opposite effect.
We left this toilet hell at first light. The skies were
clear and birds chirped in the trees. On reaching Paris we met Ray under the
Eiffel Tower as arranged. He slumbered fitfully on a bench in the Parc du
Champs de Mars, a man soaked and bedraggled after hitching 200 miles through
the night in a violent storm. We hadn’t the heart to tell him we’d taken the
train.
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